Sail on the S.S. Badger

One of my dirty little secrets is that I loved the movie Titanic. Yes, it was long, sometimes dragged, had an overplayed theme song, and I knew from the start the boat was going to sink. But I loved almost everything else about it; the opulence of the ship, the pride of the ship's design engineer, and the idea of people taking "passage" instead of a cruise. I loved how Rose rebelled against her ridiculous mother, and how Jack was there to help her with that project. I loved how we as the audience were allowed to see how the different classes experienced completely different types of travel. And I loved that period costuming, right down to those hats that might be coveted by the Queen Mum.

Obviously, booking passage on the Titanic is no longer an option. But being a true Midwestern gal, I know of the next best thing. My bucket list goal is to sail on the S.S. Badger, the last remaining steam car ferry/passenger ships on the Great Lakes. She began service in 1953 primarily to move rail freight cars across the lake. The Badger is the largest steamship to ever sail Lake Michigan, coming into service toward the end of a century marked by "palace steamers"--elegant passenger steamships that cruised the Great Lakes. As railroads traffic began to dwindle, the ships carrying them also began to thin. The Badger was retired in 1990, but purchased and refurbished one year later by an entrepreneur with a different vision for her service.

From 1992 till present-day the Badger has been operating as a car ferry/passenger ship sailing Lake Michigan between Ludington, MI and Manitowoc, WI. The ship can carry 600 passengers, 180 automobiles, and several tour buses, RV's and motorcycles on each passage. From mid-May to mid-October, the Badger makes the 60 mile lake passage three times each day. Traveling at 18 m.p.h., the trip takes 4 hours each way. The ship is powered by four boilers (coal-burning), and is moved through the waters by two cast-steel propellers nearly 14 feet long and each weighing 13,800 pounds.

"Big Ship, More Fun"

This is the official tag line for the S.S. Badger. A trip aboard the ship is not so much about "getting around Chicago" (although I would willingly try most anything to keep from making that drive one more time), as the trip across the lake does take a bit longer than the drive. A trip on the Badger is more about experiencing something from a bygone era, and enjoying travel at a pace that allows one to unwind. The ship really is big---over 450 feet long. There are large decks for walking, sunbathing, napping in the breeze or getting lost in a good read. There are other activities for people who would rather explore and socialize--an on-board museum, video arcade, TV lounges, restaurant, activity rooms (an ongoing bingo game), and showings of first-run movies. There are also 40 staterooms available for an additional fee. The staterooms are not exactly stately, but they do each offer two twin beds, a small table and a private toilet facility. Some people prefer to book a stateroom because it allows for locking one's belongings up during the voyage.

Fares

Taking this trip is not inexpensive, so this goal will have to be viewed as one of those "priceless" American Express ventures (if the Badger even takes American Express?). The round trip prices are: $111 for adults, $99 for senior citizens, $39 for children ages 5 - 15, and children under age 5 are free. Passenger cars, pickups, minivans and SUV's cost $59 each way. RV's are generally charged $5.95 per foot, and motorcycles are $38. State rooms are $49 each way, and are first-come, first-serve. There is a $9.95 security and processing fee per reservation (a family group is one reservation). If your round trip passage includes the 12:55 a.m. departure from Manitowoc, a 10% discount is given on your fare.

Also of interest might be the fact that from August 30 through October 8 a state room can be purchased as a bed and breakfast experience while the ship is docked in Ludington. Each stateroom is $79 and includes breakfast.

My Trip

My own trip will be just a day trip, although I'll work in an overnight in Ludington before setting sail in the morning. Ludington has lots of cute little shops and a fabulous ice cream parlor. Plus a breakwater wall that allows you to walk out into the harbor to the lighthouse. Several motels in Ludington that offer ferry passengers discounts to stay the night before departure.

So I'll leave Ludington at 9 a.m., and arrive in Manitowoc at noon Wisconsin time (time change!). That will give me three hours to grab some lunch and tour the Wisconsin Maritime Museum before heading back. I'll be able to walk all that, so won't need to take my own vehicle on the ship. Since I won't be paying for vehicle passage, I'll try to book a state room for the trip back. I probably won't be that sleepy, but I am nosy, and will want to know if a state room on a steam ship looks anything like a train berth.

I'll wander around, check out the ship and take lots of photos. Although I loved Titanic, I'm not hoping for anything resembling that level of adventure on this S.S. Badger voyage. And it's too bad that Jack and his friends won't be on the ship, but I guess My Heart Will Go On. (Sorry)